Frequently Asked Questions
How does an adoption application work, and why is it required?
Simply complete the application for the species you want, then you will be notified of your status (accepted/denied) within a few days, and you will be added to a waitlist. The applications allow me to easily keep records of potential adopters who want specific animals. By requiring people to apply, I can compile a waitlist of all approved adopters and then notify them when the animals they want are available. It helps me get an idea of your preferences and how well you will be able to care for the animal(s).
Why are your rats $15?
You might question why my rats cost $15 each when you can buy one from a feeder breeder for much cheaper. Firstly, price is always up to the breeder, whether they want to charge $5, $15, or $50 per rat. Personally, when I started, I price-matched my local pet store ($10-12) because my lines were equal to theirs in quality. As I continued breeding, my rats improved in genetic temperament, I began offering new coat types and markings, and I now had produced many generations. I then increased my price to $15 per rat or $25 for a pair. My pricing system also encourages the purchase of several rats since they will transition better in a group and have a lowered risk of leaving a lone rat if one dies; if you get 3+ rats, they are only $10 each. In the future―once my rats have even better temperament, health, and well-known lineages―my lines will be worth more. I know of breeders that charge $60 per rat or assign price based on genes/variety (which I don't). If you prefer to pay less for rats from another source, that is completely up to you.
What rodent is best for my child?
Many parents want to teach their child responsibility by giving them a pet, and a lot of people consider rodents such as hamsters to be perfect children's pets. Be aware that, even if your child is older, the responsibility of that animal will be yours as the parent, since children can easily lose interest and stop caring for the animal. Handling small mammals can be difficult for young children and can lead to an injured animal or worse. I would recommend that you own the animal and allow the child to help with small tasks such as feeding. You should always supervise children when allowing them to handle an animal, and ensure that good hygiene is being practiced before/during/after handling, cleaning, etc. As far as species go, rats are the calmest, hardiest rodent that I offer, although hamsters and gerbils are very handleable as well.
Don't rats carry diseases?
While you certainly won't get the black plague from pet rats, all domesticated rodents can carry diseases, just like most other animals. Rats can carry Seoul/Hantavirus and many species can carry Rat Bite Fever. There have not been many cases in Louisiana of pet rats causing major disease, and my rattery has never been linked to any such cases. However, there are always risks involved with owning small animals, so you should do some research and be aware before adopting rodents. I am not liable for any disease or injury involving animals purchased from my rattery.
Are male rats more aggressive (or stinkier)?
Short answer: no. Male rats should not be expected to fight with each other, and they cannot be housed alone. Neutering is not necessary, and males are just as friendly to humans as females. Males do like to "mark" their favorite people and territory, but I do not find males to be much smellier than females. Males are significantly larger, so that's one reason why their odor can be more noticeable.
Can I have my rats spayed/neutered?
Short answer: yes. A vet that specializes in small mammals/exotics can perform a spay/neuter surgery on rats, but it is usually expensive and dangerous. There should be no need for your rats to be spayed or neutered. Your male rats should already have acceptable temperaments, and if not, please return them to me. Neutering only "fixes" aggression in a tiny percentage of cases; aggression is genetic. If you want to house both males and females together, that's the most acceptable reason to get rats fixed, but I would still recommend just keeping two separate cages of male and female groups. You can prevent "oops litters" by keeping them in securely locked cages and not allowing any "play time" between mixed sexes. Chemical neutering is a much safer and less expensive method, so I will be looking into this as an adoption for future adopters. If you would be interested in purchasing already neutered males for an extra cost, let me know so that I can gauge adopter interest!
Don't hamsters (etc.) bite?
Anything with a mouth can bite. However, not everything with a mouth should bite. If you're like me, you probably have memories of hamsters always biting you as a child—most people do. Hamsters do not have quite the same level of domestication/natural temperament that rats do, so that sort of temperament is common in pet stores. In my breeding program, I don't tolerate biting or other major aggression in my hamsters' natural temperaments. I selectively breed for temperament and then socialize baby hamsters to make them the best possible pets.
Do you handle the babies daily from birth?
The answer to this is complicated. I do not "socialize" rats from birth every day, and that is because I selectively breed for temperament. Handling rats from birth is a process called taming, which means that the animal becomes desensitized to handling and will tolerate it, but if the animal has genetic behavioral issues, I want to know. Selectively breeding for the best natural temperament without taming them down first is true domestication. In order to breed out aggression and skittishness, I avoid handling the rats until a few weeks of age, then I evaluate temperament (also known as temperament testing). I simply observe how they react to being handled. Rats that exhibit undesirable behaviors such as aggression (fighting with other rats, biting humans), skittishness (running and squeaking), etc. are hard culled from my program. This is to prevent injuries to other rats and humans, and to better the species as a whole. Rats that have acceptable temperament are considered pet quality and may be adopted out or held back for breeding purposes. Without this process, we would not have domesticated pets, and more people would be at risk of injuries or diseases from rodent bites. At the same time, I do minimally handle the rats from birth in order to do health checks, take photos, and test the mothers for maternal aggression. And, of course, the babies destined for pet homes are played with and handled generously before leaving for their new home. You can rest assured that your babies have indeed been handled plenty, as well as know that they are genetically sound in their temperament.
Rats are fine living alone, as long as I give them lots of attention, right?
No. I can provide you with studies that show that lone rats are unhealthy and unhappy. It is cruel to keep a social, colony animal by itself. A human cannot be a rat's equal companion. When adopting rats for the first time, some people get intimidated by the idea of getting two instead of one, and they may go to a pet store where they're allowed to just get a single rat instead. This is highly irresponsible and unfair to the rat. Two rats are actually no more work than one rat. It is most humane if you adopt a minimum of two rats from a breeder. If you have a rat that is aggressive with other rats to the point of severely harming them, that rat has some form of aggression that needs to be addressed. It is not acceptable to keep a rat by itself because it is aggressive or seems "happier" alone. If you need advice on how to handle such a situation, please feel free to contact me. If one of your rats dies and leaves the other one alone, you should immediately find a companion for the remaining rat. This is why it's even better to keep a group instead of a pair (remember: colony species) and try to have rats of similar ages.
Can I adopt rats as soon as they're weaned so that I can bond with them?
The earliest that you can adopt rats from me is 6 weeks old, no exceptions. Some think that it is best to get rats as soon as their eyes open and they're eating solid foods in order to ensure "bonding" and a good temperament. Rats from a reputable breeder should already have a good temperament at any age, and bonding can happen just as easily at 6 weeks or older. Rats open their eyes around 2 weeks and will immediately start trying out solid food and water. They can still die at this age if separated. They become far more independent between 3 and 4 weeks and will live if forcibly weaned, but the mother will naturally wean them at a much later age, sometimes up to 8 weeks old. Allowing this extra nursing without forcing them to be weaned as early as possible is very important. Additionally, rats must learn critical social skills from the mother and siblings that will allow them to function normally as a colony animal. I keep all babies in with adults until they are rehomed. It is also cruel to try to hand-feed babies that are still relying on milk, so please do not attempt this (contact me if you have baby rats that need to be taken care of).
Do you sell panda bear, teddy bear, golden bear, etc. hamsters?
Essentially, yes. Those are just nicknames that pet stores typically use to describe certain Syrian hamster varieties, but I personally do not use them because it makes them sound like separate species rather than just single trait differences. Typically, a teddy bear hamster is long-haired, panda bears are black and white banded, golden bear hamsters are golden/wild type, and black bears are just solid black.
Are dumbo rats sweeter/better in any way?
Not necessarily. A dumbo rat is no different from a top-eared rat except it expresses the recessive dumbo gene, which gives it large, round, low-set ears. Dumbos are not genetically sweeter, smarter, longer-lived, or anything else. It is purely aesthetic preference.
Why should I choose you over a pet store, rescue, feeder breeder, etc.?
Breeders, pet stores, rescues, and feeder breeders all have very important places in the rodent-keeping world. I am a breeder who worked at a pet store, has rescued animals, and has bred feeders, so I will always support each of these aspects. However, as a breeder, my main goal is to produce the highest quality pets by tracking lineages, selecting the best temperament, keeping health records, and understanding the animals' genetics. Responsible breeders are typically your best bet as opposed to other routes that may not suit your needs.
Are your rats myco-free?
No. All rats have myco transferred to them by their mother at birth unless they are born under special laboratory conditions. If you don't already know, Mycoplasma pulmonis ("myco") is a bacteria specific to pet rats, and Murine Mycoplasmosis is the name of the disease that is caused by myco. The presence of myco in all rats is the reason why rats are so prone to respiratory issues. If a rat is exposed to elevated ammonia levels (dirty bedding) or some other health risk, it is likely to suffer from a myco flareup that could range from temporarily sniffling to porphyrin in the eyes/nose, sneezing, difficulty breathing, or a genital or ear infection. As long as you keep a rat in a clean environment with frequently changed bedding (and washed toys/hammocks), good diet, and minimal exposure to potential sources of disease (such as unfamiliar rats), your rats are likely to never suffer from a serious respiratory infection, though occasional sniffling or porphyrin may occur. Some adopters might ask this question because they want to ensure their rats will be healthier coming from a pet breeder than another source. In fact, rats from a breeder are indeed typically healthier because we strive to breed myco-resistant rats. While we cannot eliminate the risk of respiratory flareups entirely, we do selectively choose to breed only rats that exhibit minimal health issues. I cannot guarantee that my rats will never get sick, but they are at a lower risk of it and will leave my rattery in good health.
Do you sell cages?
Yes. The cages that I sell are custom-made tub/bin cages. While you might be looking into taller, wire cages for rats or hamsters, both of those species are fossorial/burrowers who prefer to dig, so tub cages are perfectly acceptable and are far more sanitary. For rats, Syrian hamsters, or gerbils, this is typically a 105 (also 116 or 120) qt. clear plastic storage tub with 1/2" hardware cloth windows and an optional food hopper. I could do any size tub on request, though, such as 50, 66, or 200 qt. tubs. For mice, this usually ranges from 15 qt. (for lone bucks) or 66 qt. (for large female colonies) with 1/4" hardware cloth windows and an optional food hopper. Hammocks and hoppers can be hung from the lid window, and water bottles easily fit onto the sides. The price for a cage will vary based on size, but my most common cage is a 105 qt. for $45. Some owners have a concern with chewing, but I use metal zip-ties that cannot be chewed off and I make sure to place hardware cloth on the insides so that no jagged plastic is exposed. I have not had an issue with my rats, mice, hamsters, or gerbils chewing out yet, and I would say there is only a possible risk of hamsters or gerbils having heightened chewing tendencies. Gerbils and hamsters can also successfully live in glass tanks. For rats and mice, I would argue that there is zero risk. As for degus, tub cages would not work, but I can help you find a commercial cage or homemade design.
*UNDER CONSTRUCTION*
Can't rats suffer from a lot of illnesses?
Will you let me know when you have new litters available?
Can you deliver to me?
What if my current rats do not accept my new rats? (also: How do I do proper "introductions?")
Simply complete the application for the species you want, then you will be notified of your status (accepted/denied) within a few days, and you will be added to a waitlist. The applications allow me to easily keep records of potential adopters who want specific animals. By requiring people to apply, I can compile a waitlist of all approved adopters and then notify them when the animals they want are available. It helps me get an idea of your preferences and how well you will be able to care for the animal(s).
Why are your rats $15?
You might question why my rats cost $15 each when you can buy one from a feeder breeder for much cheaper. Firstly, price is always up to the breeder, whether they want to charge $5, $15, or $50 per rat. Personally, when I started, I price-matched my local pet store ($10-12) because my lines were equal to theirs in quality. As I continued breeding, my rats improved in genetic temperament, I began offering new coat types and markings, and I now had produced many generations. I then increased my price to $15 per rat or $25 for a pair. My pricing system also encourages the purchase of several rats since they will transition better in a group and have a lowered risk of leaving a lone rat if one dies; if you get 3+ rats, they are only $10 each. In the future―once my rats have even better temperament, health, and well-known lineages―my lines will be worth more. I know of breeders that charge $60 per rat or assign price based on genes/variety (which I don't). If you prefer to pay less for rats from another source, that is completely up to you.
What rodent is best for my child?
Many parents want to teach their child responsibility by giving them a pet, and a lot of people consider rodents such as hamsters to be perfect children's pets. Be aware that, even if your child is older, the responsibility of that animal will be yours as the parent, since children can easily lose interest and stop caring for the animal. Handling small mammals can be difficult for young children and can lead to an injured animal or worse. I would recommend that you own the animal and allow the child to help with small tasks such as feeding. You should always supervise children when allowing them to handle an animal, and ensure that good hygiene is being practiced before/during/after handling, cleaning, etc. As far as species go, rats are the calmest, hardiest rodent that I offer, although hamsters and gerbils are very handleable as well.
Don't rats carry diseases?
While you certainly won't get the black plague from pet rats, all domesticated rodents can carry diseases, just like most other animals. Rats can carry Seoul/Hantavirus and many species can carry Rat Bite Fever. There have not been many cases in Louisiana of pet rats causing major disease, and my rattery has never been linked to any such cases. However, there are always risks involved with owning small animals, so you should do some research and be aware before adopting rodents. I am not liable for any disease or injury involving animals purchased from my rattery.
Are male rats more aggressive (or stinkier)?
Short answer: no. Male rats should not be expected to fight with each other, and they cannot be housed alone. Neutering is not necessary, and males are just as friendly to humans as females. Males do like to "mark" their favorite people and territory, but I do not find males to be much smellier than females. Males are significantly larger, so that's one reason why their odor can be more noticeable.
Can I have my rats spayed/neutered?
Short answer: yes. A vet that specializes in small mammals/exotics can perform a spay/neuter surgery on rats, but it is usually expensive and dangerous. There should be no need for your rats to be spayed or neutered. Your male rats should already have acceptable temperaments, and if not, please return them to me. Neutering only "fixes" aggression in a tiny percentage of cases; aggression is genetic. If you want to house both males and females together, that's the most acceptable reason to get rats fixed, but I would still recommend just keeping two separate cages of male and female groups. You can prevent "oops litters" by keeping them in securely locked cages and not allowing any "play time" between mixed sexes. Chemical neutering is a much safer and less expensive method, so I will be looking into this as an adoption for future adopters. If you would be interested in purchasing already neutered males for an extra cost, let me know so that I can gauge adopter interest!
Don't hamsters (etc.) bite?
Anything with a mouth can bite. However, not everything with a mouth should bite. If you're like me, you probably have memories of hamsters always biting you as a child—most people do. Hamsters do not have quite the same level of domestication/natural temperament that rats do, so that sort of temperament is common in pet stores. In my breeding program, I don't tolerate biting or other major aggression in my hamsters' natural temperaments. I selectively breed for temperament and then socialize baby hamsters to make them the best possible pets.
Do you handle the babies daily from birth?
The answer to this is complicated. I do not "socialize" rats from birth every day, and that is because I selectively breed for temperament. Handling rats from birth is a process called taming, which means that the animal becomes desensitized to handling and will tolerate it, but if the animal has genetic behavioral issues, I want to know. Selectively breeding for the best natural temperament without taming them down first is true domestication. In order to breed out aggression and skittishness, I avoid handling the rats until a few weeks of age, then I evaluate temperament (also known as temperament testing). I simply observe how they react to being handled. Rats that exhibit undesirable behaviors such as aggression (fighting with other rats, biting humans), skittishness (running and squeaking), etc. are hard culled from my program. This is to prevent injuries to other rats and humans, and to better the species as a whole. Rats that have acceptable temperament are considered pet quality and may be adopted out or held back for breeding purposes. Without this process, we would not have domesticated pets, and more people would be at risk of injuries or diseases from rodent bites. At the same time, I do minimally handle the rats from birth in order to do health checks, take photos, and test the mothers for maternal aggression. And, of course, the babies destined for pet homes are played with and handled generously before leaving for their new home. You can rest assured that your babies have indeed been handled plenty, as well as know that they are genetically sound in their temperament.
Rats are fine living alone, as long as I give them lots of attention, right?
No. I can provide you with studies that show that lone rats are unhealthy and unhappy. It is cruel to keep a social, colony animal by itself. A human cannot be a rat's equal companion. When adopting rats for the first time, some people get intimidated by the idea of getting two instead of one, and they may go to a pet store where they're allowed to just get a single rat instead. This is highly irresponsible and unfair to the rat. Two rats are actually no more work than one rat. It is most humane if you adopt a minimum of two rats from a breeder. If you have a rat that is aggressive with other rats to the point of severely harming them, that rat has some form of aggression that needs to be addressed. It is not acceptable to keep a rat by itself because it is aggressive or seems "happier" alone. If you need advice on how to handle such a situation, please feel free to contact me. If one of your rats dies and leaves the other one alone, you should immediately find a companion for the remaining rat. This is why it's even better to keep a group instead of a pair (remember: colony species) and try to have rats of similar ages.
Can I adopt rats as soon as they're weaned so that I can bond with them?
The earliest that you can adopt rats from me is 6 weeks old, no exceptions. Some think that it is best to get rats as soon as their eyes open and they're eating solid foods in order to ensure "bonding" and a good temperament. Rats from a reputable breeder should already have a good temperament at any age, and bonding can happen just as easily at 6 weeks or older. Rats open their eyes around 2 weeks and will immediately start trying out solid food and water. They can still die at this age if separated. They become far more independent between 3 and 4 weeks and will live if forcibly weaned, but the mother will naturally wean them at a much later age, sometimes up to 8 weeks old. Allowing this extra nursing without forcing them to be weaned as early as possible is very important. Additionally, rats must learn critical social skills from the mother and siblings that will allow them to function normally as a colony animal. I keep all babies in with adults until they are rehomed. It is also cruel to try to hand-feed babies that are still relying on milk, so please do not attempt this (contact me if you have baby rats that need to be taken care of).
Do you sell panda bear, teddy bear, golden bear, etc. hamsters?
Essentially, yes. Those are just nicknames that pet stores typically use to describe certain Syrian hamster varieties, but I personally do not use them because it makes them sound like separate species rather than just single trait differences. Typically, a teddy bear hamster is long-haired, panda bears are black and white banded, golden bear hamsters are golden/wild type, and black bears are just solid black.
Are dumbo rats sweeter/better in any way?
Not necessarily. A dumbo rat is no different from a top-eared rat except it expresses the recessive dumbo gene, which gives it large, round, low-set ears. Dumbos are not genetically sweeter, smarter, longer-lived, or anything else. It is purely aesthetic preference.
Why should I choose you over a pet store, rescue, feeder breeder, etc.?
Breeders, pet stores, rescues, and feeder breeders all have very important places in the rodent-keeping world. I am a breeder who worked at a pet store, has rescued animals, and has bred feeders, so I will always support each of these aspects. However, as a breeder, my main goal is to produce the highest quality pets by tracking lineages, selecting the best temperament, keeping health records, and understanding the animals' genetics. Responsible breeders are typically your best bet as opposed to other routes that may not suit your needs.
Are your rats myco-free?
No. All rats have myco transferred to them by their mother at birth unless they are born under special laboratory conditions. If you don't already know, Mycoplasma pulmonis ("myco") is a bacteria specific to pet rats, and Murine Mycoplasmosis is the name of the disease that is caused by myco. The presence of myco in all rats is the reason why rats are so prone to respiratory issues. If a rat is exposed to elevated ammonia levels (dirty bedding) or some other health risk, it is likely to suffer from a myco flareup that could range from temporarily sniffling to porphyrin in the eyes/nose, sneezing, difficulty breathing, or a genital or ear infection. As long as you keep a rat in a clean environment with frequently changed bedding (and washed toys/hammocks), good diet, and minimal exposure to potential sources of disease (such as unfamiliar rats), your rats are likely to never suffer from a serious respiratory infection, though occasional sniffling or porphyrin may occur. Some adopters might ask this question because they want to ensure their rats will be healthier coming from a pet breeder than another source. In fact, rats from a breeder are indeed typically healthier because we strive to breed myco-resistant rats. While we cannot eliminate the risk of respiratory flareups entirely, we do selectively choose to breed only rats that exhibit minimal health issues. I cannot guarantee that my rats will never get sick, but they are at a lower risk of it and will leave my rattery in good health.
Do you sell cages?
Yes. The cages that I sell are custom-made tub/bin cages. While you might be looking into taller, wire cages for rats or hamsters, both of those species are fossorial/burrowers who prefer to dig, so tub cages are perfectly acceptable and are far more sanitary. For rats, Syrian hamsters, or gerbils, this is typically a 105 (also 116 or 120) qt. clear plastic storage tub with 1/2" hardware cloth windows and an optional food hopper. I could do any size tub on request, though, such as 50, 66, or 200 qt. tubs. For mice, this usually ranges from 15 qt. (for lone bucks) or 66 qt. (for large female colonies) with 1/4" hardware cloth windows and an optional food hopper. Hammocks and hoppers can be hung from the lid window, and water bottles easily fit onto the sides. The price for a cage will vary based on size, but my most common cage is a 105 qt. for $45. Some owners have a concern with chewing, but I use metal zip-ties that cannot be chewed off and I make sure to place hardware cloth on the insides so that no jagged plastic is exposed. I have not had an issue with my rats, mice, hamsters, or gerbils chewing out yet, and I would say there is only a possible risk of hamsters or gerbils having heightened chewing tendencies. Gerbils and hamsters can also successfully live in glass tanks. For rats and mice, I would argue that there is zero risk. As for degus, tub cages would not work, but I can help you find a commercial cage or homemade design.
*UNDER CONSTRUCTION*
Can't rats suffer from a lot of illnesses?
Will you let me know when you have new litters available?
Can you deliver to me?
What if my current rats do not accept my new rats? (also: How do I do proper "introductions?")